AIRCRAFT - Single EngineAIRCRAFT - Multi-Engine

While I've never owned a street rod, they are a fascinating part of the automotive hobby.  The cars on this page are street rods of various configurations that would be fun to cruise in on a Saturday night.  They are presented in no particular order...but I think any one would be a hoot to have 'full size'!
1927 FORD "T" Bucket - MILD
There's nothing quite as basic as a '27 Ford Model T body on a short chassis and a nice little V8 engine.  It's sort of the quintessential street rod.  This little car required a fair amount of kit-bashing including lengthening the wheelbase, scratchbuilding the small 'bed', building a windshield and combining details from a number of kits.  The lack of chrome and painted steel wheels make this a low-buck project but what a lot of fun it would be to drive!  My brother-in-law built a similar car (below) years ago but I did not see this photo until after my model was done...the similarities are uncanny!
1932 FORD 3-Window COUPE
Certainly a classic street rod, and one I'd love to own for summer cruising, this '32 Deuce 3-window coupe is a contemporary interpretation of a vintage theme.  Equipped with a big-block Chevy, three 2-barrel carbs and headers, it's ready to rock and roll.  My version would have all the modern amenities: disc brakes, A/C, turbo Hydramatic transmission and power windows.  It would be nice to have a steel bodied car, but for a lot less money the car could use one of the 'glass bodies currently available.  The model was built from a Revell kit but with parts from several others including the engine, headers, wheels and tires.  The straight exhausts and a few body details including the headlight bar were built from wire and tubing.  A commercial wired distributor was also used.  Any self-respecting street rod should be painted "arrest me red", right?
1934 FORD Pickup Truck
The only personal association I've had with an old Ford pickup was a yellow mild street rod built by the father of a family friend.  But they've always been an intriguing vehicle on which to base a street rod.  While searching for photos to inspire a build, my wife noticed the image to the right and said "Hey, I like that one!".  So that became the inspiration for 'her' truck.  The model started with an AMT kit.  A flat head fitted with Eldebrock heads and 3 deuces provides the power.  I chopped the roof about 4" and shortened the bed 9" for a leaner look.  Removing the bumpers and using free-standing 1936 Ford headlights further update the look.  Headers flow to straight scratchbuilt exhaust with angled tips.  A vintage wire wheel rides on the fender on the passenger side.  The truck was first painted solid orange with a final coat of Tamiya Metallic Orange.  The interior, tonneau cover and wheel centers are tan.  Let's go get some groceries!
"Carol's Little Orange Truck"
That's no tool box in the nicely finished bed...that's a cooler!  Trick!  The vintage wire rim pays homage to the truck's 1934 heritage.
This is a photo of the model taken outside on an elevated surface.
This is a photo of the model taken outside on an elevated surface.
1927 FORD "T" Bucket - WILD
But there's more than one way to build a "T" bucket street rod, right?  If the car above is 'mild', the one below is "wild".  Parts from several kits were combined to create this more radical street rod.  It features a blown 427 Chevy big block, bright metallic red paint, and lots of chrome.  A more contemporary interpretation, there are no carriage lamps or oohga horns here, just a clean rod with all the necessities in a single package.  Only the split windshield pays homage to the cars 1927 heritage.
1934 FORD 5-Window Coupe
A close second in popularity to the 1932 Ford coupe for building a street rod is the 1934 Ford coupe.  This model of a 1934 5-window coupe represents the ultimate cruiser.  Powered by a mildly hopped-up Chevrolet small block it rides on independent suspension both front and rear for a super smooth ride.  Keeping with the 'simple and clean' theme, the exterior door hinges have been removed, the tires are mounted on chrome wheels with simple moon centers and trim rings and even the valve covers are smooth.  The car would have A/C, modern digital gauges and nice sound system.  The car is painted Claret Red.  'See you at the A&W!
MODELING NOTE:  This AMT kit was difficult to build as the body parts did not align well and a great deal of modification and fitting was required.   On the other hand the only parts not included in the kit were the rear tires, the air cleaner, the valve covers, the scratchbuilt door handles and the wired distributor.
Powered by CHEVROLET
The Chevy small block features modern fuel injection and ignition, both that look like vintage components.  An electric fan keeps things cool. 
1940 FORD Coupe
For all-weather cruising there's nothing like a enclosed coupe and for great looks you can't beat the 1940 Ford.  This mild strreet rod is powered by a Olds V8 fitted with three 2-barrel carbs, a classic setup.  The car retains the original rear transverse leaf spring suspension but stainless exhaust provide a sweet sound when cruising.

What sets the car off from the rest is the two-tone paint, the striking red interior, the great stance and the Cragar wheels.

Understated all around but what a nice ride!
Modeling Notes:  This model was built from the excellent AMT 1940 Ford kit.  The parts are crisply molded and there are few parting lines on the body surfaces. The only parts used in the model that were not included in the kit are the front tires, the steering wheel, the exhaust system built from styrene tubing and the seat belts made from painted tape.  It's too bad these kits don't include 12-volt batteries and alternators instead of generators!
Just a hint of '63 Corvette in the split rear window?
1929 FORD Roadster
Henry Ford offered a lot of models of his 1932 car.  Perhaps the most unique was the 2-door sedan with a bustle deck lid affectionately known as a VICKY, short for Victorian Sedan, it's official name.  The Vicky's unique proportion makes for a great looking street rod.  This one is built for cruising and going to the A&W.  The roof is stock height but the car is slightly refined with the headlights removed from the cross bar and mounted directly on the fenders.  In the back the faux spare which normally was mounted to a clumsy cross bracket has been integrated with the deck lid.

Power is from a mildly boosted Ford flat head fitted with three duces.  And automatic transmission keeps driving simple.  The side exit exhaust lets driver and passengers enjoy the sweet sounds!
Modeling Notes:  The model was built from an AMT kit.  Parts not included in the kit were the wheels, tires, polished heads, carbs and taillights.  The front suspension was lowered and detailed.  The engine was wired with a commercial distributor and an electric fan was fabricated.  The rear bumper was tucked closer the body.  The interior had to be heavily modified to allow the body to fit properly on the fender assembly...very annoying!
What a Coincidence!​
After the model was completed I came across this street rod on You Tube that though a regular 2-door sedan has the same character.  The color scheme is identical to the Vicky and the V-8 even has three duces, although its not a flathead and has headers above the fenders.  
1932 FORD "Vicky"
It's usually the case the the last model finished is my favorite, at least for a while.  But this one came out way better than expected!  It could be my favorite 1:25 model of all time!  I built this '29 Ford roadster from an AMT kit and it's mostly built with kit parts.  I was going for a high-tech look and achieved it in part with the scratchbuilt windshield and the installation of the rare Latham blower with side draft carbs.  The silver paint, Halibrand wheels and tan interior all contribute to the timeless look..
The small-block Chevy came with the kit as did the headers but I oriented the headers to be level in side view and that required scratchbuilding the cutout pipes from 1/16" brass wire.
The exhaust tips are aluminum tubing.  Seat belts are painted masking tape.  The radiator was positioned lower and the stance was carefully tuned in.